Grasses may be annual or perennial herbs, generally with the following characteristics (the image gallery can be used for reference): The stems of grasses, called culms, are usually cylindrical (more rarely flattened, but not 3-angled) and are hollow, plugged at the nodes, where the leaves are attached.Grass leaves are nearly always alternate and distichous (in one plane), and have parallel veins.Each leaf is differentiated into a lower sheath hugging the stem and a blade with entire (i.e., smooth) margins.The leaf blades of many kinds of grass are hardened with silicaphytoliths, which discourage grazing animals; some, such as sword grass, are sharp enough to cut human skin. A membranous appendage or fringe of hairs called the ligule lies at the junction between sheath and blade, preventing water or insects from penetrating into the sheath.
HAVING A BEAUTIFUL LAWN IS EASY.
HERE ARE SOME EASY TIPS FOR THE BEST GERMINATION.
Two- weeks prior to seeding spray any unwanted vegetation with Hi-Yield® Killzal.™ Killall™ contains glyphosate and will kill most anything actively growing that it is sprayed on. It will not leave any residual in the soil that could affect germination. Warm-season grasses like Bermuda grow actively in the summer. If this is a variety you want to eradicate, two summer applications of Killzall™ ten days apart is best.
Good seed to soil contact is essential. If seeding in areas where there is existing turf or vegetation, mow and bag area at a low setting. This helps the seed make contact with the soil and not sit on top of the turf or thatch. Total removal of thatch or vegetation is not necessary and can actually help retain moisture during germination.
For small areas, stir up soil surface with a rake before seeding. Apply your seed at the recommended rate with a push or hand spreader. Lightly rake area again.
For large areas, we recommend using a ‘Verticut’ machine. It can cut through light thatch and leave shallow grooves in the soil about an inch apart. The new seed falls into the grooves, making excellent soil contact and is less susceptible to washing out if heavy rainfall occurs. These are not hard to use and when seeding larger areas it can really make your job easier. Run the ‘Verticutter’ one direction over the area to be seeded. Apply seed with a spreader at the recommended seeding rate. Some ‘Verticutters’ have seeding boxes attached to them. These can also be used if desired. After applying the seed, run the ‘Verticutter’ at a 90-degree angle to the direction of the first pass. This will ensure the best seed to soil contact.
Do not plant the seed too deep. Do not set the 'Verticutter' too deep. If using a rake, a light covering of existing dirt or topsoil is sufficient.
Don’t exceed the recommended seeding rate. More than recommended rates may seem better but can actually make your grass more susceptible to diseases and other problems as it matures.
Use Fertilome’s, ‘New Lawn Starter’ 9-13-7 when seeding. This is high in phosphorus which helps with root development.
This would be a good time to get a cold beverage, lawn chair, a bit of shade and admire your hard work.
Keep new seed moist. Two or three light waterings per day is best until full germination. As grass matures, back off on you're watering as needed. Do not over-water. Seed can wash away or rot if watered too heavily.
Do not apply weed killers or pre-emergents until you have had to mow your new grass 2-3 times.
For spring seeding, apply an application of Fertilome® Lawn Food or Green Maker 30 days after germination.
For fall seeding, apply Fertilome® Winterizer 30 days after germination and a second application 60 days later. Fall applications of a high nitrogen fertilizer make for a rich, green lawn in the spring.
For a New Lawn: 8-10 lbs. per 1000 sq. ft.
Overseed and Existing Lawn: 4-6 lbs. per 1000 sq. Ft.
To keep that new lawn looking beautiful, be sure to check out... Prairie Blossom Nursery’s, ‘Lawn Care Program.’